a blade to repair Konka LCD ghost - Home Appliances

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Model: LC55FT68AC
Screen model: LTA550HF02
Symptoms: Vertical ghosting during boot screen. After turning on, the screen works fine for the first 5 seconds, then starts to crawl upwards slowly and stabilizes after 30 seconds, showing about 50 lines. Even after turning off the power, the vertical ghosting remains. After 24 hours of power-off, it works again for 5 seconds before the same issue occurs.

LCD TV repair is not my main expertise, so I did a lot of research online, including Baidu and forums. Initially, I thought it was a vertical drive failure, possibly due to a faulty component. I suspected a leaking capacitor or an issue with the motherboard RAM or logic board connection to the screen.

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Since it's a ghost image, I didn't think the power board was the main issue. I started by opening the motherboard, but without proper schematics, it was risky. I tried replacing the motherboard with a known good one from a local store, but the problem remained. It felt like hitting a wall.

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Next, I tested the logic board. Voltage readings were normal—12V and 3.3V were both stable. Still, the issue persisted. I decided to replace the board again, but that also didn’t solve the problem.

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At this point, I was pretty sure the issue was with the screen itself. I had already spent a lot of time and effort, and giving up wasn’t an option. So I went ahead and removed the screen.

After disassembling, I was shocked. The screen was fully integrated, with the column driver external and the line driver embedded. That meant no standard repair could fix it. I still had nothing left to lose, so I disconnected the right board’s cable and noticed that the left half of the image was normal, while the right half or the entire frame showed ghosting.

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Using an oscilloscope, I checked the CKV1-3 and CKVB1-3 signals. The waveforms were symmetrical, inverted, and each was 120° apart. Since the left side was working, I realized the internal dual-line driver chip might have a fault.

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I considered using the remaining functional chips to drive the entire screen, but that wasn’t feasible. I had to make a risky move. I used a sharp blade to cut the CKV1-3 lines and connected them to CKVB1-3 instead.

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After powering on, the screen worked after 3 seconds! It was a big relief.

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I took a photo of the repaired screen and ran a 4-hour test without any issues.

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Summary: Due to limited experience and lack of technical resources, I made several wrong turns, which led to wasted time and effort. The root cause was likely a misalignment or damage in the built-in driver chip caused by thermal expansion and contraction. Since the chip is embedded, it can’t be replaced easily. This kind of repair is more of a workaround than a permanent fix, but it saved the screen from being scrapped.

Although not 100% reliable, the success rate is around 85%, which is quite good compared to just throwing it away. I apologize for not being able to upload more images due to space limitations.

That’s all. I’m ready to continue my work. Thanks for your support!

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